4th International Rock Climbing Research Congress
Chamonix, France, July 9th - 14th 2018.
Congress Book
Oral Presentations
Training
[TrainO-001] CHAPELLE, Sylvain. Training for international speed climbing events.
[TrainO-002] NEUMANN, Udo. Enhancing workspace and use of momentum in climbing.
[TrainO-003] STÖCKER, Urs. Competition climbing – developing future champions.
[TrainO-004] YASUI, Hiroshi. Training for international combined events.
[TrainO-005] LOPEZ-RIVERA, Eva & GONZALEZ-BADILLO, Juan. The effects of a weighted dead-hang training program on grip strength and endurance in expert climbers with different levels of strength.
[TrainO-006] LEVERNIER, Guillaume & LAFFAYE, Guillaume. The rate of force development: a new biomechanical key factor in climbing.
[TrainO-007] DRUM, Scott, WUORINEN, Elizabeth, JOUBERT, Lanae, HECKENDORN, Marisa, CLARK, Mindie, MEDINA, Jacquie & WATTS, Phil. Rock climbing training and cancer survivorship – a pilot study.
[TrainO-008] MENDES, Alessandra, LOPES, Rodrigo & HONICK, Stuart. Profile of Brazilian and British climbers: training and injuries.
[TrainO-009] AUGSTE, Claudia, KÜNZELL, Stefan & WINKLER, Marvin. Analysis of the performance structure of the Olympic combined climbing format.
[TrainO-010] HÖRST, Eric. Qualitative analysis of two of 2017’s greatest ascents and a proposed conceptual model for maximum-difficulty sport climbing and energy system requirements.
Medicine
[MedO-001] BOJOLY, Kathleen & MOUTET, François. Growth plate injuries prevention regarding young climber competitors.
[MedO-002] MOUTET, François & BOJOLY, Kathleen, CORCELLA, Denis, FORLI, Alexandra & BOUYER, Mickael. Climber’s finger injuries.
[MedO-003] LUTTER, Christoph, EL-SHEIKH, Yasser, SCHÖFFL Isabelle & SCHÖFFL Volker. Sport Climbing: Medical Considerations for this New Olympic Discipline.
[MedO-004] SCHÖFFL, Isabelle & SCHÖFFL, Volker. What to examine! Yearly Examination of the Climbing National Team and its Consequences.
[MedO-005] JONES, Gareth, SHARPLES, Paul & JOHNSON, Mark. Improving Design Characteristic to Estimate Load for Future Rock Climbing Studies.
[MedO-006] SCHÖFFL, Volker, SIMON, Michael, LUTTER, Christoph & SCHÖFFL, Isabelle. Fatality risk in rock climbing.
[MedO-007] SIMON, Michael, LUTTER, Christoph & SCHÖFFL, Volker. Rupture of the short head of the biceps brachii muscle belly caused by a rock climbing accident.
[MedO-008] SCHÖFFL, Isabelle, DEEG, Johannes, LUTTER, Christoph & SCHÖFFL, Volker. Diagnosis of the A3 pulley injury using ultrasound.
[MedO-009] SCHÖFFL, Volker, LUTTER, Christoph, SIMON, Michael, & SCHÖFFL, Isabelle. Climbing Injuries in Children and Adolescents.
[MedO-010] SCHWEIZER, Andreas & BÄRTSCHI Natalie. PIP joint contact incongruity in different grip positions as a trigger for epiphyseal fatigue fracture in adolescent climbers.
[MedO-011] EL-SHEIKH, Yasser, LUTTER, Christoph, SCHÖFFL, Isabelle, SCHÖFFL, Volker & FLOHE, Sascha. Surgical management of pip joint repetitive stress epiphyseal fracture nonunion in elite sport climbers.
[MedO-012] LUTTER, Christoph, SCHWEIZER, Andreas, HOTFIEL, Thilo, SCHÖFFL, Volker, SCHÖFFL, Isabelle, SIMON, Michael, HEISS, Raphael, RÖMER & Frank, BAYER, Thomas. Lumbrical Muscle Tear-Clinical Presentation, Imaging Findings and Outcome.
[MedO-013] SCHEIBLER, Anne-Gita, BAYER, Thomas & SCHWEIZER, Andreas. Closed disruption of a single fds tendon slip: challenging differential diagnosis for a painful popping incident in the finger.
[MedO-014] SCHWEIZER, Andreas. Conservative treatment of triple finger flexor pulley disruption.
Motor Control and Pedagogy
[MCPO-001] SEIFERT, Ludovic. Perceptual motor skills in climbing: expertise and learning.
[MCPO-002] CROFT, James, VIAL, Shayne, WALSH, Andrew & SEIFERT, Ludovic. Measuring fluidity in climbing.
[MCPO-003] EPELDE, Maria Julia. Case Study of a Climbing Activity as an Educational Tool for Primary School Children: looking for significative learning experiences through climbing games and the innovative use of the climbing space.
[MCPO-004] GÜRER, Burak, ÖZDAL, Mustafa & AKCAN, Fırat. Acute response of handgrip strength, oxygen saturation, heart rate, and two-point discrimination after rock and ice climbing.
[MCPO-005] HACQUES, Guillaume, KOMAR, John, BOURBOUSSON, Jérôme & SEIFERT, Ludovic. Climbers’ learning dynamics: an exploratory study.
[MCPO-006] ORTH, Dominic, DAVIDS, Keith, CHOW, Jia-Yi, BRYMER Eric, & SEIFERT, Ludovic. Behavioural repertoire influences the rate and nature of learning in climbing: Theoretical and practical implications.
[MCPO-007] VAN BERGEN, Nikki, KNOBELSDORFF, Marlene, VAN DER KAMP, John, SEIFERT, Ludovic & ORTH, Dominic. Finger-tip strength supports flexibility in visual search during on-sight preview by experienced climbers: Preliminary findings.
Physiology
[Phy0-001] FRYER, Simon M. Hemodynamic responses to rock climbing.
[Phy0-002] VEREIDE, Vegard, SAETERBAKKEN, Atle, KALLAND, J., HERMANS, Espen & ANDERSEN, Vidar. Association between different Rate of Force Development-measurements and climbing performance.
[Phy0-003] FERRARA, Philip, SEIFERT, John & BECKER, James. Change in Finger Force Production and Forearm Muscle Activity in Rock Climbers during Bouts of Treadwall Climbing.
[Phy0-004] HERMANS, Espen, SAETERBAKKEN, Atle, NORD, Ivar, VEREIDE, Vegard & ANDERSEN, Vidar. The effect of 10 weeks hang board training on different specific climbing tests.
[Phy0-005] BALAS, Jiří, KODEJSKA, Jan, GAJDOSIK, Jan & GILES, David. Individual responses to cold water immersion on handgrip performance.
[Phy0-006] SUAREZ-CADENAS, Ernesto, CASALS, Cristina, GARRIDO PALOMINO, Inmaculada 3, FRYER, Simon, GILES, David & ESPAÑA ROMERO, Vanesa. Dietary Intake in Spanish Rock Climbers.
[Phy0-007] PEOPLES, Gregory, PARKER, Scott, CRADDOCK, Joel, GROENEVELD, Taylor & ANTHONY, Ryan. Rock climbers’ self-reported dietary behaviours and nutritional supplementation use in the context of climbing performance.
Psychology
[Psy0-001] WILLIAMS, Rebecca. Beyond mental skills training: creating psychologically robust climber-athletes.
[PsyO-002] GILES, Dave & DRAPER, Nick. Self-handicapping in intermediate sport climbers: a qualitative exploration of decision making and its influence on performance.
[PsyO-003] GARRIDO PALOMINO, Inmaculada, FRYER, Simon, GILES, Dave & ROMERO-ESPAÑA, Vanessa. Is vigilance related to rock climbing performance?
[PsyO-004] KÜNZELL, Stephan, THOMICZEK, Johannes, WINKLER, Marvin & AUGSTE, Claudia. To change or not to change – that is the question.
[PsyO-005] CZERMAK, Patryk & WIESNER, Wojciech. Sense of coherence of people practicing indoor climbing at various levels of advancement.
[PsyO-006] JOUBERT, Lanae, LARSON, Abigail & BLUNT-GONZALEZ Gina. Prevalence of disordered eating among international sport lead rock climbers.
[PsyO-007] ROUQUETTE, Olivier Y. Applied sport psychology in elite climbing: working with athletes, coaches, and a federation.
Sociology
[SocO-001] AUBEL, Olivier. The three dimensions of climbing sportization.
[SocO-002] LE MENESTREL, Marc. The issue of climbing Olympic inclusion.
[SocO-004] ROGEAUX, Augustin & RECH Yohann. The introduction of Sport Climbing at Tokyo 2020’s Olympic Games: analysis of the controversy in France.
[SocO-005] FELIU, François, BONNET, Christophe, LE HENAFF, Yannick & Clémence PIEDAGNEL. Climbing: a variety of sport practices and alcohol consumptions.
[SocO-006] CASUCCI, Tallie, WELLAND, B., DAVIS, S., BREIMAN, J., ELBRADER, A., MOWDOOD, A., SAMUELSON, T.V. & THOMPSON, G. Collecting the Local History of Climbing in Utah: Looking back, moving forward.
[SocO-007] CASUCCI, Tallie. An Examination of Climbers’ Information-Seeking Behaviors for Injury Care and Prevention.
[SocO-008] GONZÁLEZ-MORENO, Aline, NAVOR, L. & VALENCIA, 0. Climbing as a worksite intervention: An strategy for climbing walls acceptance in business in México.
[SocO-009] AUBEL, Olivier. Economic impact of climbing in the United States: lessons on data and the outdoor revolution.
Training
[TrainO-001] CHAPELLE, Sylvain. Training for international speed climbing events.
[TrainO-002] NEUMANN, Udo. Enhancing workspace and use of momentum in climbing.
[TrainO-003] STÖCKER, Urs. Competition climbing – developing future champions.
[TrainO-004] YASUI, Hiroshi. Training for international combined events.
[TrainO-005] LOPEZ-RIVERA, Eva & GONZALEZ-BADILLO, Juan. The effects of a weighted dead-hang training program on grip strength and endurance in expert climbers with different levels of strength.
[TrainO-006] LEVERNIER, Guillaume & LAFFAYE, Guillaume. The rate of force development: a new biomechanical key factor in climbing.
[TrainO-007] DRUM, Scott, WUORINEN, Elizabeth, JOUBERT, Lanae, HECKENDORN, Marisa, CLARK, Mindie, MEDINA, Jacquie & WATTS, Phil. Rock climbing training and cancer survivorship – a pilot study.
[TrainO-008] MENDES, Alessandra, LOPES, Rodrigo & HONICK, Stuart. Profile of brazilian and british climbers: training and injuries.
[TrainO-009] AUGSTE, Claudia, KÜNZELL, Stefan & WINKLER, Marvin. Analysis of the performance structure of the Olympic combined climbing format.
[TrainO-010] HÖRST, Eric. Qualitative analysis of two of 2017’s greatest ascents and a proposed conceptual model for maximum-difficulty sport climbing and energy system requirements.
Poster Presentations
Biomechanics & Engineering
[BiomP-001] BROWN, Danny & SCHÖFFL, Volker. Is the ratio between finger/wrist flexor and extensor strength the same in climbers as in healthy non- climbers?
[BiomP-002] COOPER, Carrie & LASTAYO, Paul. A potential classification schema and management approach for individuals with A2 flexor pulley strain.
[BiomP-003] LEGRENEUR, Pierre, QUAINE, Franck, CHAPELLE, Sylvain & REVERET, Lionel. Interpretation of hip mechanical energy in official speed climbing route.
[BiomP-004] LEGRENEUR, Pierre, THEVENET, François-Régis & BELS, Vincent. Role of lower and upper limbs in dyno maneuver.
[BiomP-005] LUTTER, Christoph, HOTFIEL, Thilo, SIMON, Michael, WAGNER, Magdalena, SCHÖFFL, Isabelle, OTT, Sabine, BAYER, Thomas & SCHÖFFL, Volker. Biomechanical analysis of Hamate hook fractures: An anatomical study.
[BiomP-006] REVERET, Lionel, QUAINE, Franck, COURTEMANCHE, Simon & KRY, Paul. Prediction of contact and muscle forces from kinematics data only - application to 3d simulation of climbing motion.
Medicine
[MedP-001] GARCIA, Kathleen, JARAMILLO, D. & RUBESOVA, E. Malformations, injuries, and adaptations in the fingers of adolescent competitive rock climbers: an evaluation with follow up by ultrasound and MRI.
[MedP-002] ISELE, Klaus, HAY, Astrid Grant, SCHRANK, Beate & SCHWEIKART, Alexandra. Treatment of finger problems in climbers with the local-osteopathic Isele-method: a pilot study.
[MedP-003] JONES, Gareth & JOHNSON, Mark. Frozen Shoulder? Remote Medical Management of a Field Guide in Antarctica.
[MedP-004] JONES, Gareth, MILLIGAN, James & JOHNSON, Mark. The Role of Self-Efficacy in the Antecedents of Climbing Related Injury: a critical review.
[MedP-005] SCHÖFFL, Isabelle, SIMON, Michael, LUTTER, Christoph & SCHÖFFL, Volker. Epiphyseal stress fractures in the fingers of adolescents: Biomechanics, Pathomechanism, Risk factors, and Ultrasound.
[MedP-006] SCHÖFFL, Volker, SIMON, Michael, KUPER, T. & SCHÖFFL, Isabelle. Injury Trends in Rock Climbers – Evaluation of a Case Series of 911 Injuries Between 2009-2012.
Motor Control & Pedagogy
[MCPP-001] TAYLOR, Nicola, GILES, Dave & MITCHELL, James. Establishing a global scale for assessing lead climbing performance.
[MCPP-002] WALSH, Andrew, SEIFERT, Ludovic, BUTTON, Chris & CROFT, James. The effect of additional load and maximal fatigue on perceived horizontal reach- and grasp-ability in a whole body reaching task.
Physiology
[PhyP-001] ANDERSON, Aman. Optimizing Muscular Strength-to-Weight Ratios in Rock Climbing.
[PhyP-002] ESCUDIER VÁZQUEZ, Juan Manuel, DE LA O, Alejandro, FRYER, Simon, GILES, David, GARRIDO- PALOMINO, Inmaculada, PONCE-GONZALEZ, Jesús Gustavo & ESPAÑA-ROMERO, Vanesa. A longitudinal assessment (10-years) of bone mineral density in rock climbers.
[PhyP-003] MAGERIA, Artur. Prediction of maximal on-sight performance during rock climbing camp.
[PhyP-004] NICHOLS, Jeanne, BATES, Rosie, WING, David, BELLICINI, Zachary, MCINTOSH, Ian, KATTUS, Mark, HALL, David & KAIN, Bob. Climbing-specific fitness profiles and determinants of performance in youth rock climbers.
[PhyP-005] PEOPLES, Gregory, NOLAN, Jordan & MCLENNAN, Peter. Forearm isometric fatigue-resistance in climbers is superior to resistance trained athletes and aerobically trained controls when matched for grip strength.
[PhyP-006] WOOD, Daniel. The effects of beta-alanine on indoor bouldering performance.
Psychology
[PsyP-001] GONZALEZ, Gina, JOUBERT, Lanae & LARSON, Abigail. Differences in perception of body weight and fitness components on performance in rock climbers.
[PsyP-002] IONEL, Maria Stefania. Exploring the cognitive and affective benefits of indoor and outdoor climbing.
[PsyP-003] MCDOUGALL, Jessie, CROCKER, Peter, KRAMER, John, DELONGIS, Anita. Pain modulation in rock climbers: influence of pain coping strategies and appraisals.
[PsyP-004] MITCHELL, James, GILES, David & TAYLOR, Nicola. The visual search strategies underpinning effective observational analysis in the coaching of climbing movement.
[PsyP-005] SANTOLAYA, Miguel, RUBIO, Victor & RUIZ-BARQUIN, Roberto. Psychological variables involved in climbing. Operationalizing expert’s knowledge.
[PsyP-006] ROCHAT, Nadège, GANIERE, Caroline, ADE, David, HAUW, Denis, BOURBOUSSON, Jérôme, HACQUES, Guillaume & SEIFERT, Ludovic. Enactive analysis of climbers’ activity in learning situations.
Training
[TrainP-001] DRUM, Scott, DARY, Matt, WINKLER, Jake, HOEH, Amy, WATTS, Phil & JOUBERT, Lanae. What is your rating of perceived pump? A novel, subjective rock climbing training tool.
[TrainP-002] FUCHSLUEGER, Ulf, DALE, Simon, HEYWOOD, Brendan & HOCHMUTH, Nicky. Climber Performance Rating - A new Approach to Rating and Ranking in the Climbing World.
[TrainP-003] LARSON, Abigail, JOUBERT, Lanae & BLUNT-GONZALEZ, Gina. Training behaviors among a heterogeneous sample of female climbers and boulderers.
[TrainP-004] SAS-NOWOSIELSKI, Kzrysztof, KANDZIA, K. & MAGIERA, Artur. The acute effects of weighted pull-ups on campus board power and power endurance exercises.
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